Bigilla

“Tal-bigilla!…. tajba u taghli!…. Ara kemm jaghmilha tajba hi!”

The Bigilla street hawker in Hamrun

Now I’ve never really been one for languages, but when I passed this little van on the outskirts of Hamrun and heard this chap shout “Tal-bigilla!…. tajba u taghli!…. Ara kemm jaghmilha tajba hi!” clearly I was intrigued, what was it … luckily I had my lovely cousin to hand, she informed me it was Bigilla, the bean paste made from Tic beans, known in Malta as “ful ta’ Ġirba”.

It presented me with somewhat of a dilemma. I don’t mind some of the commercial Bigilla’s, but it’s not something I would rush to devour, saying that, I trust my cousin and decided to give it a go. The first thing I noticed was the steam coming from it… it was hot !?… I mean more than warmed… he offered some spicy chilli sauce and a flourish of parsley… I just can’t explain my surprise, it was like a completely different dish, it was savoury, unctuous, full of flavour and incredibly satisfying, the spicy chilli acted as a perfect foil for the creamy richness of the bean and the parsley added a floral touch that elevated it from the musty mush so often procured… so it got me thinking, what other bean pastes are there around the Mediterranean, what do we have in common with our neighbours when it comes to the humble legume?

Mediterranean Cuisine

The region’s gastronomy is also known as one of the healthiest diets in the world. This is mainly because of the wide array of fresh, organic, naturally grown vegetables, legumes, fruits, and grains available around the Mediterranean. Beans represent an essential food product in any true Mediterranean kitchen, they pack an abundance of nutrients, and when dried can last for extended periods of time, they are also incredibly inexpensive. Unlike meat, beans are low in fat, high in fibre, and available at a very affordable price, because of their low cost, beans were once considered “poor man’s meat,” but with the increased interest in ethnic cuisines, such as the Mediterranean and Middle Eastern, the rise of vegan and vegetarian diets, and the recognized health benefits of beans, they have come to shed this outdated perception.

Bigilla

Bigilla is a staple dish in Maltese cuisine, it is a widely popular dip, typically served with Galletti (Maltese crackers). Bigilla can be used as a spread, a snack or served as an hors d’oeuvre (appetizer). It is a brown paste made from boiled, mashed beans (either Djerba or broad beans) and garlic, seasoned with olive oil, salt, and red pepper, garnished with either mint leaves, basil or marjoram and typically served as a dip. Djerba beans or tic beans are Maltese local beans, called Ful ta’ Ġirba, they are similar to broad beans, but they are relatively smaller, darker in colour, with a brownish nuance and harder skin. You can use fava beans as a substitute if you can’t find Djerba beans, though the colour of the paste will be more olive oil green than brown, it tastes delicious all the same. Bigilla is a very versatile condiment, it can be served with salads, savoury biscuits, toasted bread, or even as is. The flavour is distinctly earthy with a garlicky taste and a herbaceous aroma. You’re guaranteed to fall in love with this dip and make it repeatedly. Bigilla is an ideal source of plant-based protein, it’s the perfect healthy alternative for processed snacks and chemically-induced food products. It has a high nutritional value in dietary fibre, magnesium, iron, and potassium. Bigilla is also packed with antioxidants that have immune-boosting properties. Tic beans are abundant in copper and manganese, two nutrients that are crucial to good bone strength.

Hummus

Hummus is an Arab word that refers to chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans, which represent the main ingredient in making this dip. Hummus has gained wide popularity in the last couple of decades, though its origins remain a bit blurry, some people attribute it to Middle Eastern cuisine, while others believe that its preparation belongs to the Greek culinary customs and traditions. Because Egyptians and Greeks have been trading partners for an extended period of time in the past, they both share some common food products and some similar ingredients, which explains why so many popular dishes can be found in both cuisines, some that are practically identical, down to the very method of preparation and serving. Chickpeas have a mild, slightly nutty flavour and a firm texture, they are mashed and used as the main ingredient in hummus, a thick sauce made with lemon juice, olive oil, and sesame seed paste also called tahini. Because the plants grow in tropical to temperate regions, it is largely cultivated in the Mediterranean basin and constitutes a major part of the region’s nutrition and dietary habits. Hummus is an excellent source of fibre, hence why it is ideal for improving digestive health and preventing gut-related diseases, it also has a significant percentage of magnesium, phosphorus, and iron. Hummus is a super nutritious food, it is rich in plant-based protein in addition to its anti-inflammatory properties. Because of its slow glycemic index, it helps slow down the digestion of carbohydrates, preventing any future spike in blood sugar levels, because it slowly releases glucose into the bloodstream. Hummus represents the ideal healthy snack, especially when paired with some fresh crunchy vegetables and greens.

Msabbaha

Msabbaha, or any other variation of the name like mashawsha, masabacha, is a different take on hummus, the dish incorporates all the ingredients you would use to make a hummus dip, except in msabbaha, you don’t mash the chickpeas, they have to be boiled until extremely tender and buttery, the chickpeas are cooked in a cumin-infused water, with some chopped parsley and a bit of lemon juice, this represents the base of the dish and it is called balila, then a white and creamy sauce is poured over the chickpeas. The sauce is generally made from tahini paste, some pine nuts roasted in butter, olive oil, garlic, and lemon juice. There are countless variations of this dish, but the most common way of serving msabbaha is by combining the cooked chickpeas with hummus. Just keep in mind that if you want to achieve that ultimate rich nutty flavour, you should use dried chickpeas and soak them overnight, canned chickpeas aren’t the best option because they have huge amounts of sodium and they don’t have that complex flavour profile. And don’t get too impatient, the chickpeas need to be cooked slowly and very well, to reach that tender and buttery state. Well-cooked chickpeas drastically enhance the flavour of msabbaha.

Bissara

Bissara is a fava bean paste, very popular in North African countries and the Middle East, the consistency depends on the recipe and personal preference, some people prefer to blend the beans in the water they were cooked in for a more in-depth flavour. The amount of water will then determine the consistency, add more water if you want a soup-like texture, or strain and throw in a food processor to serve as a dip. Bissara is typically dusted with sweet paprika, cumin and drizzled with olive oil, when loose, it’s traditionally consumed with a spoon and when the consistency is more resilient it is eaten with some bread. Bissara is customarily served in the morning as breakfast with some freshly baked traditional bread and mint tea, or as a side dish during lunch.

Mediterranean cuisine offers a plethora of options when it comes to bean pastes, there is a variety of beans and natives get creative with recipes, most bean pastes are made with a manual utensil where beans are mashed then mixed with a bunch of herbs and spices, as well as garlic or onion. Bean pastes are widely popular because they are very convenient and simple to make, and also because they are packed with nutrients and they’re fairly low priced.

Whichever one you try, remember :
“Tal-bigilla!…. tajba u taghli!…. Ara kemm jaghmilha tajba hi!” 
and that they would be delicious with some fresh chilli sauce, some local olive oil and freshly chopped parsley! – I may even be tempted to make some Dukkah crisps!

Enjoy!