Cutting the Mustard

Having spent many of my formative years in Norwich, Norfolk, UK, I was always proud of the fact that Coleman’s also called the city home. The ‘Home of Mustard’s’ Factory was within a couple of miles from my kitchen.

‘I make my money from the mustard that people throw away on the sides of their plate’.

– Jeremiah James Colman, 1880.

How its produced always intrigued me and unfortunately when I didn’t know how to make something, it was generally a spur to learn, especially if people thought it was a task too far… why produce it yourself, when you’re living on the doorstep of such a world-renowned producer. Well, the answer is quite simple really .. I didn’t like the Mustard they produced! Which I found a bit sad, but I suppose I had a fairly specific requirement in the taste dept, that and the texture I found a little mundane. I always prefered more texture, sometimes even, more sweetness but more often than not, definitely more flavour.

So with this in mind and endless culinary possibilities in front of me, I embarked on a journey to learn more about one of our oldest condiments.

The seeds derive from the plant species Brassica & Sinapis of the family Brassicaceae, which is a hugely intriguing plant, one that gives in so many ways. Its family include amongst others, cabbage, rocket, rapeseed, cress, horseradish & wasabi.

It produces a few types of seeds which come from plant variants, White, Brown & Back seeds all with varying strength.

Its also regarded as somewhat of a magical elixir, with ancient and modern references to it ‘Helping you sleep better’, ‘Promoting healthier looking skin and hair’, It has an anti-fungal and antibacterial property which Its claimed can help with skin problems and assist in the fight against Psoriasis, its high selenium content is believed to help improve bone strength. There is also evidence it can improve your cardiovascular health and assist in red blood cell formation as well as being an unsaturated fatty acid with omega-3 properties, which apparently reduces the cholesterol level of the body.

It’s precisely because of this antibacterial property that Mustard itself doesn’t spoil easily and has long been considered a food preservative.

However impressive the medical claims are, and not having a PhD in Medical healthcare I’m more interested in what it’s able to do to my tastebuds!

Generally, mustard oil is used as an edible oil or a condiment. The plant is to the Northern hemisphere what chilli is to the tropics. Its a seasoning with endless possibilities, hot, mild, savoury, sweet, whatever your preference, as well as having longevity on the shelf and this, is precisely what drew me to it.

A condiment with a thousand facets. One of the few indigenous spices to Europe, and one that has ingrained itself in many culinary cultures, from the Indian Subcontinent to the shores of the Mediterranean and way up to Northern Europe and beyond.

Sometimes revealing itself with a smooth richness, other times barely a cracked seed, and often somewhere between, the variations are endless.

Most often vinegar is the vehicle used to carry flavour but not always, driven by what’s available; makers will use water, alcohol, beer, verjus, fruit juices or wine to soften the seed and then honey inevitably to sweeten and lighten its strength. The famous Dijon Mustard is made from the unsweetened sour juice of unripe grapes which coincidentally is also used to make the wonderful balsamic vinegar.

So how do we make Mustard?… In its purest form, it’s just a slurry of ground seeds and water! However, the whole purpose of this journey is to expand upon that.

So let us look at the seeds themselves; We have three options; White, brown and black. White mustard seeds produce a milder condiment than do brown Mustard or black Mustard seeds. They provide a stronger, hotter flavour. English mustard is made from a combination of white and brown seeds, American Mustard is made from white seeds and Turmeric to give it that distinctive colour. Dijon Mustard is made from a mix of white and brown seeds. Brown seeds produce better quality mustard with a more in-depth flavour, and black seeds are used in hotter condiments as well as middle eastern and Indian cookery.

Once we have the seeds or combination of choice, the basic idea is quite easy, grind your seeds and add a liquid to get the consistency and taste you want! In its purest form that’s all Mustard is, nothing more intricate than water and Mustard powder.

Making great Mustard is another story, according to a friend of mine who is a complete and utter food nerd, you need to use cold or cool liquid. This is what gives the condiment its strength, and to attain the fieriness locked inside the seed, you need to break at least some of them open, a little bit like peeling garlic, the treasure lies inside!

So if you want milder Mustard, soak your seeds in a warmer or even a hot liquid … if you prefer your condiment hotter use cold or a cooler soaking liquid.

The chemical action that occurs when you soak your seeds is actually quite unstable and doesn’t last long, it can and will dissipate quite quickly making your Mustard lose its intensity over time.

It’s essential to use a non-acid liquid initially to soak your seeds as this allows the chemical reaction to take place and the flavour to develop then after a short time the acid can be added; usually vinegar, the chemical reaction is then set in place, and your condiment won’t lose its bite.

Seasoning is essential, and it can take more salt than you would think, It improves the flavour and acts as a preservative, not just of the Mustard but of the taste as well, as unsalted Mustard tends to lose character over time.

The addition of Salt and Vinegar are crucial to the condiment, along with its potent antimicrobial properties, once it is mixed with Salt and Vinegar it’s almost regarded as undegradable. So that jar in the back of your fridge is probably fine. It’s very unlikely to have gone off, but it can dry out.

Herbs, better quality vinegar, local honey and varying combinations of seeds all contribute to better quality and a more complex flavoured Mustard.

Experimentation is the key; finding a blend of flavours that better suits your palette is the way to go.

For instance, one of my favourite dishes … is a very classical French Dish called “Poulet à l’estragon” – simply Chicken with Tarragon but if you take the tarragon as a base or starting point, use some wonderfully aromatic, white wine vinegar and sweeten it with Gozitan honey it makes the most heavenly Mustard. Which in turn is just sublime with warm, poached chicken a simple green salad and buttered new potatoes.

So my favourite, “Wholegrain Tarragon & Apple Vinegar Mustard” was born and its a regular participant in my kitchen.

There is no doubt that the best mustards are made with a combination of seeds enhanced with aromatic juices and herbs, in varying degrees of ‘crushedness’ so that the chemical reaction needed to attain the fire.. is created.

Once you’ve created your personal masterpiece, it needs to sit in the fridge for a short while, to let the flavours settle, mingle and develop. Initially there will be a trace of bitterness to your new Mustard, but this will dissipate with time, generally a day or two, but don’t be put off by it, it will definitely go.

Depending on your recipe and the ingredients added, this will determine how it should be stored, mustards made solely of seeds and acid can be stored at room temperature, but if you add other ingredients such as herbs, nuts or vegetables, then you should refrigerate your condiment as it will deteriorate quicker. I’m sure, however, that your delicious Mustard will be devoured before it becomes a problem.

Homemade Mustard makes a beautiful gift with a personal touch and will remind the recipient of you, with every mouthful long after you have left.